Leather tanning

How much do you know about how your leather goods are made? Did you know that tanning is a crucial step to ensure optimal longevity?

Tanning is the chemical operation that allows a hide to become leather. In fact, tanning exists in different forms: mineral tanning and vegetable tanning .

Do you know the difference?

• The mineral tanning is done with chromium III, a non-toxic substance

The main tanning method is chrome tanning, which is used for 85% of the leather produced in the world. This method uses chemical chromium, specifically chromium III, which is safe for those who work with and wear the leather. Chromium VI is the form of chromium that can oxidize from chromium III and it is this chemical that is dangerous to use.

The European Union has imposed restrictions on chromium VI and the leather we use, being tanned in France, does not contain this type of chromium. Precautions are taken at all levels of the tanning process to ensure that this chemical will never oxidize after production. The advantage of chrome tanned leather is its stability, with very little color variation. It also better protects the leather from temperature changes and the elements.

This is the tanning we use for the majority of our creations.

• The vegetable tanning made from plant extracts

This form of tanning does not mean that the leather is made from a vegetable base or that the leather is vegan. This method of tanning uses plant extracts, leaves, bark and roots. Although better than chrome in terms of waste, vegetable tanning uses more energy and water and produces a smaller variety of colors. The main plants used for this process are chestnut, olive and rhubarb. Our Philanthropy belt is made from the latter.

Research is being conducted to use other metals, such as aluminum, and tests are being conducted to obtain a metal-free tanning. The results are not yet satisfactory.

Now that you know a little more about the different types of tanning, what are your thoughts on the pros and cons of each?

• Tanning at Phi 1.618

We offer creations in both types of tanning. We source our mineral tanned leathers from the dormant stocks of the major French luxury brands. Thus, we are able to use materials without contributing to the increase of production.
We source our vegetable tanned leather in France. Unfortunately, we have not yet found any dormant stocks in this type of tanning and buy "classic" production hides.

Check out our latest product launch, our Philanthropy belt, made from vegetable-tanned leather here!