The making of our Philo handbag
The realization of a handbag consists of a multitude of steps, from the idea to its materialization, from a leather skin to an accessory that we want to be a work of craftsmanship.
It all starts with the desire to create, always in the great course of (re) creation of the golden ratio. It is often our customers who inspire Juliette, the creator of Phi 1.618. She listens to their desires, their needs and from an exchange an idea is born.
For each new handbag, Juliette makes three prototypes to achieve the ideal result. Each prototype is tested and then optimized.
It is then entrusted to the workshop of craftsmen in Touraine. A pre-series is made to further optimize the model and allow it to be made in several types of leather, still full grain leather but different textures, thicknesses, holding.
Here are the steps, once all the previous ones have been validated:
The first step is to cut out all the parts of the handbag. For Philo, this includes the two circular faces, the sides, the handles, the shoulder strap and details such as the pass-hand. In total, more than thirty pieces are subjected to this step, some of which are invisible, once the bag is finished.
The “saddler” finishes, our favorites:
It is this type of specific finishes that Phi uses. These are the rarest. They are identified by three signs: the thread, the hand cut and tinted edges, and the oblique stitching of each stitch of the seam that only the truly discerning eyes of a craftsman or person familiar with luxury can notice.
After cutting, some parts must be prepared before assembly because they will no longer be accessible afterwards.
Using the threading iron equipped with the double net, a line is marked two millimeters from the edge. It is the signature of the bag. It can be decorative, but it is also used to bring together two pieces of leather that have been glued to prepare the tint.
This operation is carried out while it is hot; the temperature of the iron is around 100° C and requires a firm hand on the part of the craftsmen to accomplish it in one regular movement. The slightest slip can be seen.
Each raw edge of the bag is tinted in order to maintain its quality over time, to seal it and to make it as pleasant as possible to the touch and the eye. Depending on the location of the bag and the creation to be tinted, several layers are applied, up to six sometimes! This process is time consuming and, since it is done by hand, is very precise.
Between each coat, heat and sand the edge to round it off and smooth it out to prepare it for the new coat of tint.
Our brand, based on the golden ratio, is also affixed to each product. Using an embossing machine and gold foils, our craftsmen place the Phi 1.618 logo precisely where needed, as well as the words “Made in France”. They also number each bag because we make very limited series.
Some parts are sewn separately, the zipper and the pockets of the bag are placed on the inside faces before assembly. The part for attaching the shoulder strap is attached to the “channel” band, the one that goes around the bag on the side.
After each part has been prepared, we assemble the handbag. Philo is machine-sewn, which is very classic for items from the big luxury houses, and only the small details that cannot be assembled by machine are made by hand, such as the loop for the shoulder straps of our handbags.
Once the handbag is assembled, it needs to be refined. The last edges are then tinted. The mini handle is tied, in the same way as our belts, on the bag. And There you go! Philo is born!
All our handbags respect the golden ratio. Our Philomène piece inspired the creation of the Philo bag. Find out why Juliette Angeletti, the brand's designer, created it in a round shape.