There are several qualities of leather, from full grain leather to split leather.
1- Full grain leather to be preferred
Full grain leather is the noblest part, it is the top of the skin. It is the leather that will best acquire a patina all the while keeping its flexibility. In this category, calfskin is the smoothest and softest one.
The leather grain refers to the first layer of the skin that has been treated and to which a varnish has been applied.
Nubuck is the top of the leather that has been scraped to give it a fluffy and soft appearance.
Suede: even if its appearance is close to nubuck, it is of inferior quality.
Finally, the leather crust is the lower part of the skin, the least noble and the cheapest. It is also the one that will age the least well.
Do not hesitate to touch as much the leather as possible to learn how to recognize it, to appreciate the softness of the skin, the fineness of the grain.
2- To check the quality of the finishes, run your finger over the edges
There are 2 types of finishes: "saddle" (the edges are cut clean) and "rolled up" (the leather is folded over the edge and sewn by a hem). The first finishes are the rarest because they require more time.
Several operations are necessary to respect the tradition of leather saddlery: thread the edges (a light line on the edge made with a threading iron), tint the edges, heat them and sand them. The operation is repeated until a smooth and soft slice is obtained.
We have chosen the "saddler" finishes which are the most qualitative. They require a know-how and a time of realization very superior to the "rimmed" finishes.
Run your finger over the saddle-finish edges to appreciate its softness and regularity, synonymous with quality. Discover our Philo handbag, the finishes of which testify to real craftsmanship.
3- Regular seams
They ensure the longevity of your product by strengthening the leather. The regularity of the stitches and their inclination signify a saddle stitching.
4- High-end fittings
The quality of these will ensure the durability of your product. The carabiners, rings, closures must not oxidize as this will spoil the product in its entirety.
5- French manufacture, a pledge of fine leather goods
The place of manufacture is as important as the quality of the leather: a beautiful but poorly assembled leather will not last. France has a tradition of quality, from tanners to leatherworkers whose fame shines internationally. Italy, Spain and Portugal are also recognized in these fields.